RAMALLAH, ISRAEL - DEEP INTO THE WEST BANK

No time for a photo update.  We went deep into the West Bank this morning and early afternoon.  We were able to see Arafat's Tomb and the Compound that was almost destroyed by Israel.  It took three drivers to get us into Ramallah.  I am glad that we went.  I was able to see a totally different world.  Ramallah is not the same as Jerusalem.  I can't even begin to explain.  I definitely have a deeper appreciation for the plight of these people.

We are safe back into Jerusalem now.  I will post photographs later today.  We are going to the Mediterranean Sea now.  Jaffa and Tel Aviv.  

I will post some photographs tonight.

We are safe.

David and I started the day by walking through some of the streets of Old Jerusalem.  There were many merchants selling this and that.  We did buy some spices!  This is a Palestinian area.  Most of the merchants were Palestinian.  There were a ton of women with the head coverings (the name slips my mind right now as to what they are called.)  Ton of people out and about!  





IDF SECURITY WATCHES OVER A PALESTINIAN GIRL IN THE OPEN
MARKET PLACE INSIDE OF OLD JERUSALEM.  SMALL CHILD
LOOKING A PURSES BELOW HIM.  THIS IS THEIR REALITY.

Black and white of the same photograph








Shoppers walking around the streets of Old Jerusalem.




Woman selling Chick Peas.  These are very popular over here.  They
taste great when deep fried into a hush puppy type food!  I love them.



Selling chick peas on the street - Old Jerusalem

Muslim Woman selling food in Old Jerusalem.

Muslim woman in Old Jerusalem.  Saturday Morning.

A small child outside the entrance of Old Jerusalem.




Saturday in the market

Back from a day of adventure!

Holy cow...my world is changing.  How can one see something from 6000 miles away and "think" that they understand it?  How can one watch the news and take sides on a conflict that involves people that you have never met?  How can one say "this is good" and "this is bad" without knowing why someone does what he or she does.  There may be absolutes in the world but in Israel the word absolute may or may not exist.  

I watch the little children playing in the streets in Israel.  They play with their soccer balls.  They laugh, they run, they play.  

I watch the Palestinian children play in the streets of Bethlehem and Ramallah.  They play with their soccer balls.  They laugh, they run, they play.

Their worlds, however, could not be further apart.  One side has and one side has not.  

We went from Ramallah to Tel Aviv today.  In Ramallah we saw rubble.  We saw what were buildings but are now just shells of buildings.  We saw buildings that were riddled with bullets.  We saw an entire city block that Israel destroyed while surrounding Arafat's Compound last year.  We saw what looked like a third world country.  Trash everywhere, dirty streets, broken windows, and we saw people that did not have hardly anything.  

We went from that to the beaches of Tel Aviv.  Where everyone "has."  Where wealth was obvious.  Where people were playing games on the beach.  Where people were laying out and tanning.  We saw kites in the sky far above.  We saw laughter and drinking and people having fun.  The stark contrast went unspoken at first.  Eventually I told David that I was glad we visited the West Bank this morning.  It gave me perspective.  How can a world be hidden from the worlds view so easily.  Like a secret - hushed and hidden away.  A world now hidden by a wall.  A world hidden by barb wire.  A place that Westerns are told DO NOT VISIT.  A world that those from the West our told is dangerous.  A hidden world within a country.  

It is sad.  It is disturbing.  It is not right.  It is...It is...It is

I do not agree with the teachings of Arafat.  I believe in my heart that he was a terrorist.  I went to his compound and grave site today for a reason.  I went there to try and understand what made this person do some of the things that he did. I wanted to see what he was fighting for.  I wanted to see this "land" that was worth so much that thousands of people have died in its name.   I went there hoping that maybe I could see this "other" world.  Maybe I could get a glimpse of "the other side."  What I left with was a heavy heart for the Palestinian people.  I left angry that kids throwing rocks can be shot dead without much concern by anyone else but their families.  I left knowing that these same people have taken upon themselves to blow up children and babies on buses and street cafes.  These people in themselves had brought much evil to Israel- pure and simple.  But yet at the same time Israel has brought pain to them.  Two sides - at war with each other.

Neither side is innocent here.  There is much bloodshed to be forgiven of by all parties.  Thousands of years of battles have divided everyone here.  It is going to take a miracle to bring peace to this region.  There is no possible way I can ever possibly understand the deep rooted animosity that each side holds for the other.  But I do know this - I know that each side is made up of human beings.  Each side has something at stake.  They have their children to raise.  Children do not see black or white.  Children only see other children.  A playmate - a partner in hide and seek - someone to kick the ball with - someone to catch their Frisbee.  Children perhaps hold the hope for this country. PERHAPS eventually they will be the ones to bring change.

We met a woman from the International Red Cross.  She was visiting the tomb of Arafat.  We spoke for a few minutes about what she does here in Israel.  She moved here (temp) from Geneva, Switzerland.  She works with children in the West Bank.  Her job is basically to try to bring some smiles into their lives.  I could tell when she was speaking that it weighed heavily on her.  She could see beyond the political boundaries that gripped those in power here.  She could see that, in the end, these issues and problems are killing the children.  She really did not even want to be at the tomb.  She was there because she had to be - there was a conference going on - part of the conference was to attend Arafat's Tomb.

Peace must come to this region.  War is not an option.  There must be peace.  There must be resolution.  This wall that is being built is very sad for the people on both sides.  We have spoken with a number if Jewish people who do not agree with the wall.  They do not see it as a sign of progress.  They do not see it as something "good" for the country.  They feel like it will further divide the Palestinian people against them.  Many Jewish people believe that Israel should give up the land that the Palestinian people already occupy.  It seems that the sticking point (for the most part) is Jerusalem.   

I am in awe at what I am seeing here and the experience as a whole.  This has been a life changing event.  It is amazing what a few days away from the Michael Jackson trial and the  "runaway bride" can do for a person.  I doubt I will EVER try to act like I understand the problems that these people face.  I will, however, leave here with a better understanding of the people and the human spirit that drives them to do what they do.  That is something that can never be taught in a classroom, on CNN, or through Fox News.

So enough of that for now -

We went deep into the West Bank today.  A taboo of sorts.  We arrived from Jerusalem in a taxi cab driven by someone that was Jewish.  He would not enter the West Bank with us.  He dropped us off near the border.  David and I got out of the car and walked for a little ways.  We were approached by a man who asked us if we needed a ride.  We looked at him for a little bit and said "yes we are looking for a taxi."  He said "yes yes come come with me."  He then went and talked with another person for a little bit.  This guy took us to a car (not a taxi) and negotiated a price to drive us to Arafat.  Soooo we then took off and drove about one or two blocks.  The car then stopped right in the middle of the road with cars behind us.  The guy gets out and another guy gets in.  David and I are prob thinking the same thing at this point.  The guy tells us that he will drive us to the check point.  We are a bit confused but I am starting to put the puzzle together.  The guy drives us to the check point where the IDF is asking a bunch of questions.  Eventually they let us through.  The driver then stops the car and a third person gets into the car and drives us a little ways.  Then eventually the original person gets into the car.  He says that he is sorry for the confusion.  This guy had walked across the border - not in a car.   So this is what I figured out.  The original guy is not certified to be a taxi driver or take money to drive people around (remember the car is not a taxi.)  He was simply a guy that was taking money from people who would allow him to be a taxi driver.  Sketch?  I guess...but it worked out for us.  Those angels work overtime you know.  Kristy will be me later.

Our driver took us through the streets of Ramallah.  It was a totally different world than Jerusalem.  You could tell we were in a war torn area.  It is something you just have to experience.  Sad really.

We drove for about 30 minutes and eventually came to an area surrounded by a concrete wall.  There was a field in front of it with nothing but rubble.  These were buildings that had been bombed over the past few years.  There was nothing left but bricks and pieces of concrete.  We then entered the compound.  There were Palestinian Flags hanging all over the place.  Arafats picture was painted on the walls of the security check point house.  Guards with machine guns were walking around and guarding the entrance.  These were Palestinian Guards NOT IDF.  

We walked without problems to Arafat's Tomb.  The tomb is surrounded by a glass building.  In the middle of the tomb is where he is buried.  There were dozens of flowers from different countries on top of the tomb.  His photograph was posted here and there.  Two Palestinian guards were watching over the grave.

As we were leaving a bus drove up that contained the International Red Cross and the members of the Red Crescent.  A number of dignitaries were sprinkled amongst the group.  This is where we spoke to the lady that works for the International Red Cross.

After leaving his tomb we walked over the compound and looked around.  The guards did not allow us to get very close to the compound (parliament.)  Eventually they are also going to build a museum on this site (prob next to his tomb.)

It was all an eye opener.  It was sad driving through Ramallah and seeing the depressed area.  The bombed buildings and so on.

Our cab driver got us ice cream while we waited about 40 minutes in the security check point line.   He was from Ramallah.  A really nice guy.  He was nice to us at least.  I don't think I have ever had a taxi driver get us ice cream before :) 



Buildings in front of the compound blown up.

Arafat's Tomb - it is enclosed by a glass building.
Palestinian Flag above there.



This is where Arafat is buried.  His photograph there in the background
and to the upper right hand corner as well.




Arafat - Ramallah - at his tomb




Arafat's Photograph - Ramallah, Israel - West Bank

Soldiers guarding the tomb



 
One of Arafat's Guards.  He is standing watch over the 
compound.  

Arafat's Compound.  They are rebuilding it.  It will eventually be the parliament building
again.  This is  where ALL of the bombings by Israel took place.  One after another.  
I would not even begin to guess how many people died at this location.  So many 
terrorists have come and gone out of here.  It was a strange feeling being here.  
Almost surreal.

International Red Cross and Geneva Workers





Arafat's Compound - the security gate that you enter the premises.  His portrait
is on the wall to the right.  Palestinian Flag above to the left.




This is me in front of the entrance gate to the compound.  Soldiers to the left are Palestinian
and that is their flag above me to the left.   GEESH I don't think I ever dreamed I would
ever be at this location.  Over the last few years I have prob watched hours of gun and tank
battles here.  Just incredible feeling to be standing where Arafat lived.  Who would have
thought!

Some of the rubble in the property next to the compound.  This used to be part of a
building.




The West Bank - Ramallah, Israel  - driving through part of the city.

And now back to the "real" world.  Or so one would be led to believe.  Hmmm

Tel Aviv - back to beautiful beaches and the city itself.



Tel Aviv the city along the Mediterranean Sea.  Hard to believe that  Saddam was lobbing 
scud missiles into this place.



We walked all the way from Jaffa (south of Tel Aviv) to the end of Tel Aviv - to the north!  Long walk along the beach.  It was beautiful though.  There is nothing like the sound of the Ocean/Sea waves!  It always is like it is calling my name.  I am going to have to eventually move to the ocean. The Mediterranean Sea is the body of water to the left.  Beautiful!  



Ok I am POSITIVE that there is some story here with this boy and his camel.  
I just am not sure what it is.  David and I decided it is supposed to be a chick magnet.  :)
I was just trying to figure out what his pick-up line would be!!!!




This is me in the Mediterranean Sea - Tel Aviv, Israel!  The water was 
nice and warm.

Tel Aviv behind some of the wild flowers along the 
beach area.




Tel Aviv Beach - city in the background there. TON of people having 
a good time.



Mediterranean Sea - Sun poking through the clouds!



Mediterranean Sea - Sun starting to go down now



Sun is setting - a cool breeze is starting to blow from the
west.

The sun sets over the sea - It was so tranquil sitting
at this little outdoor cafe.  Just heaven really.


What an incredible day.  I think it is going to take awhile for all of this to soak in.  I am so glad that I came over here.  I am sure the experience is going to forever change my world.  It certainly helps me to see beyond the borders of North America.  I have so much to learn in life about peace and war.
I know that I really can't truly appreciate what is happening here.  I know that it would take lifetimes to actually fully understand the problems that everyone here faces on a day to day basis.  

Driving through Ramallah today made me think about so many things.  I wondered what everyone else around me was thinking.  When we passed a car and they would look inside, it made me wonder if they were thinking "is that someone from the United States?"  I don't know if that would be a good thing or bad thing.  I guess it would be bad.  I don't think they really appreciate most of the beliefs that the US people hold (or our government at least.)  It is hard to say though.  We certainly didn't have any problems.  If you read the States Department Warning about the area we are staying in one would think we are under attack.  I don't know...it is all very weird.  It is peaceful right here at least.  So far no problems or issues.

The biggest adventures are ahead of us.  I don't think I ever dreamed I would enter into Jordan or for that matter Egypt.  We will only be about 50 miles or so from Saudi Arabia.  Close!  Diving in the Red Sea is going to be one of those events that will never be forgotten.  I am anxious about the days ahead but also very excited.  

I think Doug would be proud of me today :) for crossing boundaries and barriers that I doubt he ever thought I would cross.

OK the AGENDA for the next several days.  I am unsure if I will have internet this week.  I will take my computer and hope for the best.  We will be in some VERY remote areas.  One night we will be on top of Mt. Sinai.  There are going to be camp outs in the desert.  Diving in the Red Sea.  The list goes on!  Here is the "list" as I have it now -

22/5/05- 
1 day from Jerusalem to Eilat pick up 9:30, via Ein Gedi, Dead Sea and Massada, and the small crater (the best will be consulting with the guide). Crossing to Sinai, transfer to Hyatt Taba for the night (H.B)

24/5- Day 3 - 
Dahab- Diving and snorkeling along the coast, the night in Hyatt Taba.  We will book you a place in the diving club in Dahab.

25/5- 
day 4- 
Pick up 7:30 from Hyatt to Taba and to Arava border- Rabin crossing where we enter Jordan. We board  4X4 jeeps, driven by professional Bedouin drivers and journey to the sandstone area of Wadi Rum. Here we go off-road into its unique landscape and get right off the beaten track to explore rarely traveled ancient merchant routes. Lunch is enjoyed en route in the great outdoors. We continue off-road through the Rum and by evening reach a Bedouin Camp where we enjoy have our evening meal and settle for the night in a simple Bedouin guest tent*. Here we have the opportunity to observe the awe-inspiring desert night-skies and the mysterious and enchanting views of Wadi Rum.

26/5- day 5-  
Following breakfast with the Bedouins we board our 4X4s and head for the road to Petra. At the modern entrance to the ancient site we leave our vehicles and commence the walk (horses available for this stage) to the imposing Siq Canyon. A 1/2 hr walk through its towering canyon walls leads us into Petra. We tour the lost city on foot, exploring the main archeological sights. We stop for a refreshing buffet lunch at a restaurant within the site itself. Following lunch we commence the walk back to our vehicles. Clients who wish to do so may hire the services of the traditional transport providers (mules, camels and horse-drawn carriages) to help them on their way. 

27/5- day5 continue - Transfer to Alenbi bridge, crossing to Israel.

We will be visiting a Muslim family.  We will be staying with them part of the time.  I am sure this will be an experience of a lifetime!  No DOUBT!

Ok - I am not sure when or if I will be able to update my web page for the next several days.  We are going to try.  David and I will have a guide with us.  There will actually be multiple guides.  We will cross the border into Jordan later today and then eventually into Egypt.  Although these are a bit of the the normal "zone" I am not worried about our security.  We will be in good hands with the guides.  I think going into Ramallah was prob more risky than anything we have done or will do.  That went fine - so I am not concerned about the other areas.  I will be careful as I always am!

Over and Out for now!

OK NEXT PAGE -THERE HAS BEEN SOME DOWN TIME - NO INTERNET.  I POSTED DAILY EVEN THOUGH I COULD NOT UPLOAD!  SO YOU WILL HAVE TO PLAY CATCH UP!

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